Belt Buckles: Types, Finishes and How to Choose One

The buckle does two jobs. It holds the belt on, and it's the part of the belt people actually see. Most men never think about it until they have to choose one, so here is a plain guide to the main kinds of belt buckles, the finishes they come in, and how to match one to what you wear.

The three buckle types we use

Heel bar dress buckle

A slim buckle with a bar at the heel that the leather folds around. It sits flat and has a refined shape, which is why it suits suits, dress pants and shirts that are tucked in. This is the buckle on our Cavalier belts. Browse the dress belts.

Heel bar buckle

A heel bar buckle that is a little more substantial than the dress version. It works with dress pants as well as jeans and chinos, which makes it a good everyday choice. This is the buckle on our Heritage belts. See dress casual belts.

Roller buckle

A buckle with a small roller on the prong side, so the strap moves smoothly through it. It has a casual, work-ready look and goes well with jeans, boots and work pants. This is the buckle on our Foundry belts. See casual belts and work belts.

Buckle finishes

• Brass: warm and golden. It looks best with brown and tan leather and develops a soft patina with use. More on that in our guide to brass belt buckles.
• Nickel: a soft silver tone. It's brushed nickel on our Cavalier belts and nickel matte on our Heritage and Foundry belts. They are two different finishes, both in the same silver family.
• Chrome: bright, mirror-like silver. It reads dressy, so it pairs well with black leather and formal clothes.

How to match a buckle to your belt

1. Match it to the occasion. Slimmer buckles for dress, roller and heel bar for casual.
2. Match the metal to what you already wear. If your watch, cufflinks or other belts are silver, choose nickel or chrome. If you wear gold tones, choose brass.
3. Match the leather. Brass is a natural fit for Havana, British Brown, Chestnut and London Tan. Nickel and chrome look sharp on black. Our black and brown collections let you compare finishes side by side.

Does the buckle affect the fit?

Not the size, but the belt size is measured from the end of the leather to the hole you use, not including the buckle. If you are unsure which size to order, our belt size guide and size chart explain how.

Can I swap the buckle later?

Our belts use Chicago screws, so a buckle can come off for a swap or repair. Contact us and we'll tell you what's possible for the belt you have.

Gift shopping? See our guide to choosing a belt for him.