If you’ve ever handled a belt that feels soft, flimsy, or starts falling apart after a year or two, chances are it was made with poor leather, bad construction, or both. I’ve been making leather goods long enough to get picky — maybe even snobby — about the details that separate a good belt from a forgettable one.
This isn’t a step-by-step tutorial, but more of a breakdown of what I look for (and avoid) when making or evaluating a handmade leather belt — especially those made from English bridle leather, which I use often.
Why One-Piece Handmade Leather Belts Are Better
This is one of the most overlooked parts of belt making. A lot of belts — especially factory-made or "dress" belts — are constructed from multiple layers of thinner leather, often laminated or stitched together. That may look fine at first, but those layers will often de-laminate over time, especially with regular wear. Once that happens, the belt starts peeling or separating, and there’s really no fixing it.
Personally, I only make one-piece belts cut from a single strap of full-thickness leather. There’s no filler, no glue between layers — just solid, honest leather. If someone wants stitching, I keep it decorative, not structural. Stitching might look nice, but in my opinion, if your belt needs stitching to stay together, it’s not built right.
Choosing the Right Leather: Why English Bridle and Veg Tan Matter
I only use vegetable-tanned leather for belts — usually English bridle or harness leather, depending on the project. Chrome-tanned leather and softer types like nubuck don’t have the density or structure needed for a belt that’s going to hold up over time.
Bridle leather is a great option because it’s hot-stuffed with waxes and oils, making it firm but not stiff. It has a smooth finish and it develops a nice patina with use. I especially like English bridle from Chahin — I’ve used a lot of leather over the years, and theirs is just consistently excellent.
For thickness, I typically use 10–12 oz leather — that’s about 5/32" to 3/16" thick. It gives a solid feel without being overkill. On the buckle end, I skive it down to around 6–7 oz so the fold lays flat and wears comfortably.
A Note on the Backside
This is where I might sound a little snobby — I care a lot about the back side (flesh side) of the leather. You’ll notice some belts have a fuzzy, suede-like texture on the back. That’s totally normal, but it’s not something I like using.
I prefer leather with what’s called a “pasted back.” That means the tannery has smoothed and finished the flesh side of the hide, giving it a clean, polished appearance. It’s not just about looks — it wears better, doesn’t shed fibers, and feels more refined. But it’s something you have to specifically ask for when ordering leather. Not every tannery offers it, and not every maker bothers.
Holes: Round vs Oblong
Another personal preference: I always use oblong holes rather than round ones on the billet end (the side with the holes). Round holes tend to stretch and tear over time, especially if the belt is under tension. Oblong holes distribute pressure more evenly and just hold up better. It’s a small detail, but it makes a difference in how long the belt lasts and how clean it looks as it wears in.
I usually punch seven holes, spaced evenly. Five can work if someone’s waist size doesn’t fluctuate much, but I like to give a little more room for adjustment.
Solid Brass vs Stainless Steel: Hardware That Lasts on Leather Belts
Hardware is another key detail in belt making that often gets overlooked. A lot of mass-produced belts use plated pot metal or nickel-based hardware. These materials are cheap, but they don’t hold up — the plating chips, the base metal corrodes, and under stress, they can even crack or snap. Pot metal and low-grade nickel don’t take plating well, which is why the finish wears off quickly.
For durability and long-term use, I stick with solid brass or stainless steel.
Brass is my go-to. It’s strong, corrosion-resistant, and has a little flex to it — meaning it’ll bend instead of shattering if it’s dropped or stressed. It’s also the ideal material if you want a plated finish, because brass takes plating exceptionally well. Not only can you get a range of finishes (nickel, antique silver, black, gunmetal, etc.), but the plating can be applied thick and even — and it actually lasts.
This isn’t like the thin, shiny coating that flakes off cheap buckles. When you start with a solid brass base, the plating bonds better and doesn’t chip or rub off like you'd expect from lower-end hardware. It's surprisingly long-lasting.
To give an example: In the early days of my business, I made leather belts and suspenders for several fire departments. As of writing this, some of those are six years old and still in active service. These are worn in high-heat environments, exposed to sweat, grime, and gear. The buckles still look brand new — no flaking, no dulling. They’ve been used hard, with harnesses and tools clipped to them, and even the leather still cleans up well after all that abuse. That’s what quality brass hardware — and proper plating — can handle.
Stainless steel is another solid option. It doesn’t rust, it’s extremely strong, and it holds up great long term. Most stainless hardware is used raw, with a bright, chrome-like finish. It doesn’t take plating the same way brass does, so if you’re after something with a different look or tone, brass is more versatile.
Buckle Attachment: Rivets vs Chicago Screws on Leather Belts
When attaching the buckle, I either use copper rivets or Chicago screws. Copper rivets are super solid and have a classic look, but they’re permanent. Once they’re in, you’re not getting them out without cutting or punching.
Lately, I’ve been using Chicago screws more often. They’re made from brass, and you can unscrew them if you ever need to replace the buckle. I’ve found them to be secure and low-maintenance while keeping the build solid.
Summary: What to Look for in a Handmade Leather Belt
None of this is complicated, but attention to detail really does matter. A well-made leather belt isn’t about tricks or shortcuts — it’s about using the right leather, not cutting corners with construction, and finishing things properly.
For me, that means one-piece belts, solid hardware, clean holes, and leather that feels just as good on the back as it does on the front. The little things add up.